Sunny Days
Helacious tied to the dock at Kerrera marina, Oban.
Sometimes it is just not sailing weather, and May 2025 was that time. We are not going to complain too much, apart from a little grumbling at the fuel bill. The sky was blue and there was no rain, so our time was spent hiking the wonderful hills all the way up the west coast of Scotland.
Brian contemplating the Cullin Ridge over on the Isle of Skye.
We had checked the weather forecast before leaving the Scilly Isles and it predicted a couple of days of fine downwind sailing all the way up the Irish Sea. We had originally planned to spend some time exploring the west coast of Ireland on our way to Scotland, but it had taken longer than planned going along the south coast of England. We therefore decided to forgo Ireland and instead head straight up to join our OCC friends for a gathering in Loch Shuna. Shortly after leaving the protection of the Scilly Isles, the wind died. We motored pretty much the whole way.
A calm evening motoring north.
We make landfall on the south coast of Islay as the evening light was fading. The Ardmore islands and associated reefs protect the anchorage from the swell of the Atlantic ocean. The next morning we awoke to find ourselves surrounded by seals perching on the exposed rocky ledges.
The head of the bay we were anchored in dried out at low tide, and we had been informed there was a native oyster bed there. We grabbed the fishing net, stuck it on a boat pole and went hunting.
It was a good job we were still well provisioned, as the oyster bed could not be found. Maybe the seals and oyster catchers had beaten us to it.
Early morning departure from Ardmore Islands.
Early the next morning we left the shelter of Ardmore anchorage and sailed up the sound of Jura to meet Simon and Sally Currin, OCC members who were hosting a gathering at their lovely house on the hill overlooking Loch Shuna. We picked up their mooring just below the house and the next day went in to enjoy a most welcome shower, do some laundry and prepare for the party. About 30 sailors gathered in the afternoon, enjoying the sunshine and views from the garden. It was such fun hearing of the adventures of these seasoned and very salty sailors. We hope to see some of them at a later date as we continue our travels.
The weather looked settled for the next few days, so we decided to revisit a few favorite spots and explore some of the fair-weather anchorages we had not been able to visit on previous trips. As we left Loch Shuna, it was approaching slack tide so we decided to take the shortcut and pass through the notorious Gulf of Corryvreckan. After reading about the turbulent waters, whirlpools and overfalls, our transit was rather a non-event as we motored through placid calm water safely to the other side.
Once safely on the other side we went down to West Loch Tarbert on the Isle of Jura, arriving at that wonderful time of the evening when the hills glow. The view over to the Paps of Jura, the steep scree-covered mountains to our south, was spectacular.
In addition to the fine views, Loch Tarbert also has the unique raised stone beaches, deposits from retreating glaciers eons past. The next day we went ashore to explore.
Perfect pebbles on the raised stone beach.
West Loch Tarbert, Jura.
The next stop was a narrow anchorage amongst the Garvellachs, Isles of the Sea. The southernmost of the islands, Eileach an Naoimh, has extensive remains of the 9th century St Brendan’s monastery.
At anchor in the Garvellachs.
The main attraction was the beehive cells the monks used for isolated contemplation. While there, we met a work crew who had just made a fantastic job of trimming the whole site. We joined them in the beehive cell for a short break and to chat about life and our travels.
It was time to replenish the supplies and pick up some packages, so we headed up to Kerrera marina in Oban. Here we made a few trips into town to get stocked up for the next few weeks. We also took the opportunity to have a brief haul out; sit in the slings and get Helacious’s bottom power-washed and the anodes replaced. We also greased the prop and cleaned out the sea chest.
An hour later we were back in the water. We celebrated a job well done with a beer and a trip to the Green Shack.
One of our packages had not arrived, despite express shipping, so we decided to move out of the marina for a few days and return when the package had been delivered. We did not want to go far so we managed to find a few places nearby we had not yet visited and set about exploring them.
The first was Loch Spelve, almost fully landlocked and surrounded by some lovely hills. In the northern arm, there is a mussel farm. We anchored here and went in to the pontoon where there was a cooler full of mussels and an honesty box.
Well, 2kg mussels is quite a lot for two people! We had meals sorted for two days. The following day we walked a lovely circular walk in the hills above our anchorage. We spotted an Adder, Britains only venomous snake.
The southern end of Loch Spelve was a tranquil anchorage, surrounded by gently rolling hills. There was a lovely walk, past Loch Uisg, a freshwater loch, to Loch Buie on the south side.
At anchor in Loch Spelve.
Just inland from Loch Buie is a ring of ancient standing stones. In a field of sheep, the stones stand vertically in a near-perfect circle.
Back on the shores of Loch Buie we stumbled across Moy castle, stronghold of clan MacLaine until 1752. Unlike many castle remains, this appeared to be in fairly good condition, however the doors were barred.
The next day we motor up to Lismore island and a beautiful anchorage in the shelter of Benera Island. There was a drying causway between the two. Up on the hill, overlooking the anchorage was the ruins of Achanduin castle, significantly less well maintained than Moy castle.
Lismore island looking north toward the Sound of Mull.
Finally our package was delivered. and we head back to Oban. We fueled up (again), spending a small fortune for the pleasure of these sunny, windless days. The next day we start the slow journey north.
Lismore lighthouse.
Follow our progress on our tracking page.
https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SVHelacious/